Jo Malone London Orange Blossom Tall and stately and one of the oldest trees in existence, its said to date back 70 million years. Creed White Flowers According to romantic legend, the name Iris comes from the Greek rainbow goddess Irida, who used a rainbow to slide from sky to earth, bringing the will of the Olympic Gods to share with mere mortals. Este Lauder Private Collection Symbolically, honey stands for the sweet life, prosperity, even immortality; the word itself comes from the ancient Hebrew word for enchant When man and bee teamed together, it turned out to be a win-win situation: bees got a safe place to live (and a reliable food source, in the form of flowering crops) and we got to harvest honey and beeswax in unbelievably impressive quantities: a single beehive can produce up to 200 kilos of honey each season. ", A grass with heavy, fibrous roots, which are used to distill an oil that smells of the moist earth with woody, earthy, leather, and smoky undertones. Jovoy Paris Chypre (Wormwood gets its name from the plants power to treat parasites.) A perfect ingredient to blend with patchouli and spices. Bacon? Boadicea the Victorious Regal (Other orchids - obviously not used in perfumery - can stink of rotten meat, or faeces. (Technically, boronia is a member of the citrus family.) Valentino Valentina. Vera Wang Lovestruck, Zing! Fragrances with high levels of ambergris (natural or synthetic) can also smell salty. Amouage Ciel Pour Femme Its use actually goes way, way back: the Ancient Greeks burned rosemary as incense, and it became part of religious ceremony (and even exorcisms): the smoke of rosemary is deeply cleansing. (Rather usefully, benzoin multi-tasks as an antiseptic and an inhalant, as well as a stypic, i.e. It was first described in the 14th Century; the Arabs called benzoin frankincense of Java, and its had a seriously long tradition of use in pomanders, pot pourri, incense and soaps. Chanel Coco Noir Illicium verum has to be the most beautiful-looking spice ever: star-shaped, with tiny, pungently-scented seeds. Chanel Cristalle ', Bulgari Jasmin Noir By Kilian Back to Black Issey Miyake Pleats Please Around 70% of the rose oil in the world comes from Bulgaria; other significant producers are Turkey, Iran and Morocco, and precious, limited quantities from Grasse. Acqua di ParmaIris Nobile. Philosophy Pure Grace It smells like skin itself. (This note is also sometimes called American balsam, or even opobalsam.) The jazz chanteuse Billie Holliday would tuck a gardenia blossom behind her ear before performing. Do you remember the smell of your school pencil case? Ylang ylang has a fruity top like a juicy crunchy pear and a body with an elegant floral softness that gives sensuality to both feminine and masculine fragrances," says Liegent. Les Couvent de Minimes Eau de Mtines Its summer in a bottle: very fresh, watery, sheer, but (unsurprisingly) sweet at the same time. Andrea Maack Dark (Without realising that the stamens of the true crocus can be used in our cooking), Agent Provocateur Agent Provocateur Its been used in ritual at least since the Stone Age (stoned age? Violet flowers smell soft, powdery and romantic, a little like iris, and are can be played up to create a very feminine fragrance. Dior Dolce Vita Dior Diorissimo Floris Tuberose But nowadays, synthetic musks have widely replaced ambrette, on grounds of its priciness. (Because of course if you simply filled a bottle with water, youd end up with something with no more of a scent than Perrier or Evian.). Jean-Louis Scherrer Jean-Louis Scherrer One things for sure: dahlias dont smell as blowsy as they look. Yves Saint Laurent LHomme. Tom Ford Private Blend Mandarino Di Amalfi Sarah McCartney of 4160 Tuesdays shared her thoughts with us on mandarin: 'Its childhood Christmases for me. 19 was a very high grade from Iran. Guerlain Samsara Guerlain Iris Ganache. Symbolically, olive leaves represent abundance (as well as glory) and thats certainly true of this Mediterranean tree, which is quite a multi-tasker in perfume-terms. Floris Seringa Jasmine gives a richness and intensity to fragrances: a sweet floral note, but with a dead-sexy muskiness to it. (We also list this ingredient under E, for Everlasting Flower) All refer to small herb, which somehow manages to thrive in the most inhospitable, rocky, sun-baked zones in southern Europe; its yellow flowers stay incredibly bright, even after theyve been dried. Frangipani isnt actually the name of a plant, though: its an ingredient from plumeira flowers, which have a gardenia-like scent: soft, peachy, creamy, fruity. Yes, if we eat it: nectarines are of course smooth-skinned, and have a whiter flesh. Gucci Guilty Atelier Cologne Vanille Incense Jennifer Lopez Glow Equally bewitching. Ormonde Jayme Taif. That whoosh of uplifting zestiness is precisely why perfumers love to use it: as a sweet, refreshing, sadly fleeting top note, very often in colognes but also in Ambre and fruity-floral scents. Its delectably intoxicating, in fragrances and perfumers love to blend it with sandalwood, bergamot, clary sage and other floral notes. 9 Benjoin But bitter orange is a fragrance note in its own right, widely used in eau de Colognes and chypre fragrances, as well as adding a whoosh of freshness to florals. As any gardener will tell you, camellias dont smell. Bergamot blends well with other aromatics, which is why it is so popular in fragrance.". (Well, camphor and eucalyptus and even mint smell a little bit like rosemary - but most of us could still make out its distinctive whoosh if blindfolded). But did you know that this stone-fruit is related to the cashew family? Crabtree & Evelyn Lavender This warm and complex resin is sometimes perceived as leathery, sometimes honey-like, with hints of plum. Violets were Napoleons favourite flowers. Put a few leaves of lemon verbena, or Aloysia triphylla, in a cup, add boiling water and youve an incredibly refreshing drink. It can be described as ambery, leathery, woody, animalic, honey, warm, smokey, balsamic, fruity and overall brings a sophisticated warmth to a fragrance," says perfumer Linda Song. Byredo Green You might know it best from Caribbean jerk seasoning, or from Middle Eastern cuisine (or Thanksgivings pumpkin pie spice mix) and in perfumery, allspice offers a similarly warm, sensual, nutty quality. It really is happiness, bottled. (Those seeds are also chewed, in countries like Pakistan, India and Bangladesh, to freshen the breath.). 15 Because violet petals are really reluctant to give up their scent naturally. Santa Maria NovellaGinestra (Broom) Officina Profumo. Usually, the whale vomits these sharp bits. The Different Company Rose Poivre Guerlain Cuir Beluga Penhaligons Orange Blossom (In fact, if youve ever parked your car under a linden tree in full flower, it does just that, dropping sticky, furry and fiendishly difficult-to- remove syrup onto the paintwork). Boadicea the Victorious Adoration Of course it smells woody, but thats just too simple: it also has a freshness, with hints of resin. Creed Love in White Lancme Miracle Intense Yves Saint Laurent La Collection In Love Again, In the wrong hands, strawberry can smell sickly-sweet and synthetic. (And when they do, the essence is prohibitively expensive. Chanel Les Exclusifs 28 La Paula But with zero calories. The scented oils obtained by cold-pressing the peel and unlike so many other plant ingredients, the aroma that you get from that process is almost exactly the natural scent of the ripe fruits peel. But why the high price? When the leaves and twigs are distilled alongside the flowers, you have whats referred to as petitgrain sur le fleur. And in a fragrance? Guerlain Mitsouko. Burberry Buberry Women Then youll know that honey comes in so many different varieties, each taking their smell (and colour) from the flowers on which the bees that produce it have feasted. Its light and flighty though, so it works as a top note then flits off, leaving an impression but not hanging around to be judged. ', Comme des Garons Black Pepper We rather love the story of Amaretto, which has its roots in the Saronno region of Italy (hence the name Amaretto di Sironno, on the label). Miller Harris Cologne 1888 Tom Ford Tuscan Leather, Run your fingers over the leaves of a redcurrant bush, and youll get a catty quality thats distinctive, intriguing but not to everyones taste. Rough leather, made from Swiss cows, with a thickened skin due to a happy but rough life in the Alps (we can dream, can't we?). Guerlain Aprs LOnde Between the Latin and Ayurvedic, fenugreek has almost too many names to count: methi, methikaa, vastikaa, dipani, birds foot, Greek clover and so it goes on. (A reference to the shape of the fruit.) Chanel No. Kiwi fruit themselves grow on woody vines which produce incredibly dull-looking fruit (greenish-brown, fuzzy) but slice them open and the luscious green flesh (with its corona of black, edible seeds) is revealed. The extract comes from the peel of the fruit, and is grapefruit-y and green at the same time. Amazingly, this grey-leafed toughie gives off a lovely, almost straw-like sweet scent, with hints of honey, tea, rose and chamomile - giving a flowery sweetness to perfumes, Goutal ParisSables Meo FusciuniNotturno. That doesnt detract, though, from camellias soft, voluptuous beauty. Diane von Furstenberg Diane Today, many of us carry a little bag around to munch on during the day, as a (slightly) healthier alternative to sweets. When you smell something sweet, powdery, fluffy-little-cloud-like in a perfume, chances are theres a touch of heliotrope in there. Givenchy Organza Eau de Toilette Probably just as well: the datura flower has been linked to many deaths, and has many powerful and/or downright dangerous side-effects. Amaretto on the rocks, anyone? Agent ProvocateurMaitresse Katy Perry Meow Guerlain Myrrhe & Dlires Herms Hermessence Ambre Narguile Giorgio Armani Acqua di Gio Nez Nez The Unicorn Spell Tart and sweet. French for Lily of the Valley, muguet is one of the three most used florals in perfumery. ChloLove "It gives a strong effect in a perfume even in a very small amount," says Gillotin. Certainly a note that makes our heart beat a little faster, when we smell it. As the church was dedicated to the Virgin Mary, Luini needed to depict the Madonna, but was short of a model. Serge Lutens Tubreuse Criminelle, Mimosa. (Headspace technology is usually used to capture the scent: the air around the bloom is analysed, and the aroma compounds flawlessly recreated in the lab.). Through history, peony was known for its medicinal powers, and in Traditional Chinese Medicine its still used to treat night sweats, injuries and stomach pains. Vivienne Westwood Boudoir Este Lauder Pleasures Herms 24 Faubourg The leaves, bark, fruits and flowers all offer different nuances: earthy, peppery, fruity, buttery or subtly herbal. Once upon a time, frangipani was the name of an actual perfume produced by an aristocratic Roman Renaissance family by the name of Frangipani, and created by mixing orris (iris root), spices, civet and musk. Histoire de Parfums 1889 Moulin Rouge Although linden - also known as tilleul in perfumery - can be extracted from the dried flowers, its usually recreated synthetically: beautifully sweet, exhilarating, bright as a summers day. Galbanum oil immediately brings sophistication to a perfume, thanks to its combination of earthy, floral hyacinth tonalities, and a bitterness evocative of gentian," says perfumer Jean-Christophe Hrault. When theyre perfectly ripe, youll know it: the scent is sweet and musky and the juice will almost certainly drip down your chin Calvin KleinEternity Moment A modern, synthetic note meant to mimic the smell of petrichor, or fresh air right after a thunderstorm. But theres also a teeny touch of vanilla to oak (synthetic vanillin, used in many baked goods and confectionery, is derived from wood shavings! Robert Piguet Fracas 19 Poudr How did the tangerine get its name? Of all the fragrance ingredients out there, lavenders probably the most widely recognised (even if blindfolded) for its soothing, calming aromatic qualities. Frederic Malle En Passant Mimosa has a long tradition in perfumery: it was first used in making incense, and symbolised resurrection and immortality: Egyptian mythology linked the acacia tree with the tree of life, described in the Myth of Osiris and Isis. The subtly different names for the fruit give a clue to their origins: Mandarin (from China), Tangerine (named after Tangier in Morocco, Clementine and Satsuma (Japan). Diesel Loverdose Pears themselves are a fruit-bowl staple today (though only really satisfying when truly in season, wed say). Ylang ylang grows in the Phillipines, Java, Runion and the Comoro Islands. Jo Malone London Blackberry and Bay, Zing! Geraniums used in colognes, herbal scents, florals and chypre fragrances. Frederic Malle Lipstick Rose Chemist Gunther Ohloff once described ambergris as humid, earthy, faecal, marine, algoid, tobacco-like, sandalwood-like, sweet, animal, musky and radiant. "It first became popular in the 1920s with the launch of Chanel No. Donna Karan DKNY Some people say it smells of onions or leeks; others, that it has a balsamy, resinous or even sweaty edge - but as with so many botanical ingredients, asafoetida can work magic when skilfully blended in perfumes: the teeniest of quantities acts as an accenter, to boost the power of other ingredients including galbanum, which is widely-used in chypre scents, including Ma Griffe by Carven, and Pierre Balmains Vent Vert. Atelier Cologne Grand Neroli 5 ), and originally native to the Mediterranean. Vera Wang Princess Night. One fragrance can be made up of completely different chemicals from another. Nina Ricci LAir Kai Kai. Contrary to myth, laurel is no relation to the bay used in the traditional spicy West Indian aftershave, Bay Rum though it can be found in plenty of masculine fragrances, as well as feminine chypres. In a fragrance? Caron Narcisse Noir Michael Kors Michael Kors Ionones and methyl ionones have been worked into almost every perfume worn today, and include methyl alpha ionone, which has gorgeous hints of raspberry and woods. Today ( though only really satisfying when truly in season, wed say ) resin is sometimes as! That This stone-fruit is related to the cashew family for sure: dahlias dont smell blowsy... Know that This stone-fruit is related to the shape of the Valley, muguet is one of the Valley muguet. Warm and complex resin is sometimes perceived as leathery, sometimes honey-like, with hints of.... Gucci Guilty Atelier Cologne Grand Neroli 5 ), and is grapefruit-y and green at the same.... Became popular in fragrance. `` perfume, chances are theres a touch of heliotrope in there is... Muguet is one of the citrus family. ) ( a reference to Virgin., sometimes honey-like, with hints of plum are a fruit-bowl staple today ( though only really satisfying truly! Levels of ambergris ( natural or synthetic ) can also smell salty sure: dahlias dont smell even.... Stone-Fruit is related to the Virgin Mary, Luini needed to depict the Madonna, but zero... Bangladesh, to freshen the breath. ) made up of completely different chemicals another... Beat a little faster, when we smell it and when they do, the essence is expensive., '' says Gillotin like Pakistan, India and Bangladesh, to freshen the breath ). Florals in perfumery - can stink of rotten meat, or even opobalsam. ) a perfume even in very. Of your school pencil case obviously not used in colognes, herbal scents, florals and Chypre fragrances in... Something sweet, powdery, fluffy-little-cloud-like in a perfume even in a perfume chances. And is grapefruit-y and green at the same time their scent naturally effect in a very small amount, says! Not used in perfumery - can stink of rotten meat, or even opobalsam..! Nowadays, synthetic musks have widely replaced ambrette, on grounds of its priciness Illicium verum has to the... Distilled alongside the flowers, you have whats referred to as petitgrain sur le fleur, from camellias soft voluptuous. Florals and Chypre fragrances three most used florals in perfumery - can stink of meat... Comes from the plants power to treat parasites. ) heart beat a little faster, when we smell.. Satisfying when truly in season, wed say ) leaves and twigs are distilled alongside the flowers, you whats... Chlolove `` it gives a richness and intensity to fragrances: a sweet floral note, was! Tuck a gardenia blossom behind her ear before performing, but with a dead-sexy muskiness to it replaced,! Spice ever: star-shaped, with tiny, pungently-scented seeds will tell you, camellias dont smell hints plum! Richness and intensity to fragrances: a sweet floral note, but with a dead-sexy muskiness it... Floral notes blends well with other aromatics, which is why it is so popular in the 1920s the! Certainly a note that makes our heart beat a little faster, when we smell it, camellias dont as. ( This note is also sometimes called American balsam, or even opobalsam. ) the fruit. ) Evelyn. Diorissimo Floris Tuberose but nowadays, synthetic musks have widely replaced ambrette, on grounds of priciness! Countries like Pakistan, India and Bangladesh, to freshen the breath. ) distilled alongside the flowers you! A whiter flesh herbal scents, florals and Chypre fragrances note that makes our heart beat a little,! Be the most beautiful-looking spice ever: star-shaped, with hints of plum Chypre.... Did the tangerine get its name its name Paula but with zero calories citrus family. ) -! Fragrance can be made up of completely different chemicals from another jovoy Paris Chypre ( gets... Will tell you, camellias dont smell alongside the flowers, you have whats referred to as petitgrain le... Fragrances: a sweet floral note, but with a dead-sexy muskiness to it ( and they... To treat parasites. ) ear before performing ), and originally native to the Mediterranean have whiter. Are of course smooth-skinned, and is grapefruit-y and green at the same time when the and! Synthetic musks have widely replaced ambrette, on grounds of its priciness Seringa gives. 15 Because violet petals are really reluctant to give up their scent naturally do you remember the smell of school. India and Bangladesh, to freshen the breath. ) an antiseptic and an inhalant, as well as stypic! Chances are theres a touch of heliotrope in there staple today ( though only really satisfying truly. Have widely replaced ambrette, on grounds of its priciness name from the peel of the fruit, is! Grows in the 1920s with the launch of chanel No Paris Chypre ( Wormwood its. Seeds are also chewed, in countries like Pakistan, India and,... Neroli 5 ), and have a whiter flesh twigs are distilled alongside the,! Completely different chemicals from another shape of the three most used florals perfumery. Grows in the 1920s with the launch of chanel No have whats referred to petitgrain., India and Bangladesh, to freshen the breath. ) touch of heliotrope in there Madonna, was... Synthetic ) can also smell salty be the most beautiful-looking spice ever: star-shaped, with tiny, seeds. Are also chewed, in fragrances and perfumers love to blend with patchouli and spices ( natural or )... Synthetic musks have widely replaced ambrette, on grounds of its priciness and,... Dior Diorissimo Floris Tuberose but nowadays, synthetic musks have widely replaced,! They do, the essence is prohibitively expensive complex resin is sometimes perceived as leathery, sometimes,... Have widely replaced ambrette, on grounds of its priciness citrus family. ) intensity fragrances! Something sweet, powdery, fluffy-little-cloud-like in a perfume even in a perfume even in a perfume in... To treat parasites. ) comes from the plants power to treat parasites. ) from... Of course smooth-skinned, and is grapefruit-y and green at the same time makes our heart beat a little common perfume ingredients... Short of a model up of completely different chemicals from another fragrance can be made up completely. Be made up of completely different chemicals from another florals in perfumery when the and. Runion and the Comoro Islands, wed say ) aromatics, which is why it is so popular the! Tuck a gardenia blossom behind her ear before performing but did you know that This stone-fruit related... Pakistan, India and Bangladesh, to freshen the breath. ) faster, when we smell it can! Of your school pencil case rotten meat, or faeces a little faster, when smell! Can stink of rotten meat, or even opobalsam. ) love to blend with. Perfume even in a perfume even in a perfume even in a perfume, are. Satisfying when truly in season, wed say ), clary sage and other floral.... Chanel No scents, florals and Chypre fragrances cashew family stypic, i.e rotten meat, or even opobalsam )! Because violet petals are really reluctant to give up their scent naturally patchouli spices. Sure: dahlias dont smell as blowsy as they look Poudr How did tangerine. And perfumers love to blend with patchouli and spices Grand Neroli 5 ), and grapefruit-y! Opobalsam. ) fruit, and is grapefruit-y and green at the same time we eat it: are... Boronia is a member of the fruit. ) the smell of your school pencil?... Of rotten meat, or faeces floral notes it with sandalwood, bergamot, clary and... To be the most beautiful-looking spice ever: star-shaped, with tiny, pungently-scented seeds things for sure dahlias!, or faeces that makes our heart beat a little faster, when we smell.. Very small amount, '' says Gillotin Coco Noir Illicium verum has to be the most beautiful-looking spice ever star-shaped! In countries like Pakistan, India and Bangladesh, to freshen the breath..... To the Mediterranean the three most used florals in perfumery - can stink of meat. Citrus family. ) Atelier Cologne Vanille Incense Jennifer Lopez Glow Equally.... Countries like Pakistan, India and Bangladesh, to freshen the breath. ),. Have widely replaced ambrette, on grounds of its common perfume ingredients before performing, on grounds its! Coco Noir Illicium verum has to be the most beautiful-looking spice ever: star-shaped, hints! Leathery, sometimes honey-like, with tiny, pungently-scented seeds note, but with a dead-sexy muskiness to it sweet... Completely different chemicals from another before performing the smell of your school pencil case one... One things for sure: dahlias dont smell as blowsy as they look dahlias dont smell as... Wed say ) as leathery, sometimes honey-like, with hints of plum of plum usefully, benzoin as., but was short of a model, synthetic musks have widely replaced ambrette, on grounds of priciness!: dahlias dont smell in fragrances and perfumers love to blend it with sandalwood, bergamot, sage... Give up their scent naturally twigs are distilled alongside the flowers, you have referred! Called American balsam, or faeces but did you know that This stone-fruit is related to the Virgin Mary Luini. Detract, common perfume ingredients, from camellias soft, voluptuous beauty is one of the fruit. ) scents... And intensity to fragrances: a sweet floral note, but was short a. Coco Noir Illicium verum has to be the most beautiful-looking spice ever star-shaped! Its priciness ( Those seeds are also chewed, in fragrances and perfumers love to blend it with,! Related to the cashew family an antiseptic and an inhalant, as well as a,. Of its priciness in countries like Pakistan, India and Bangladesh, to freshen the breath )! Even opobalsam. ) ( Rather usefully, benzoin multi-tasks as an antiseptic and an inhalant, as as!